Bibi Graetz the Norwegian-Tuscan “Testamatta”
Bibi Graetz is a Testamatta, a “crazy head” who has found its way to Tuscany from Norway. Having a strong artistic vain, the love for poetic wines doesn’t seem to be a far-fetched phenomenon. He fell in love with old vineyards and autochthonous Tuscan varieties. Although the winery is fairly young (founded in 2000), even the youngest vines exceeds that age and some of them are over 100 years old. Probably the greatest collection of old wines in Tuscany. The winery has its headquarter in the center of Fiesola, about 10 minutes from Florence, in a historic hotel from the 19th century. They kept the disco ball in the fermentation cellar, where the magic is done by native yeasts at all times. New oak is off the table, the stage is set for the varietal characters. Bibi has around 80 hectares now spread all over Tuscany, on mostly higher altitudes from 300 to 600 meters.
We’ve opened the dance with the newest Testamatta. The 2020 vintage was warmer than usual, but this singe varietal Sangiovese didn’t show any marks of jamminess or tyring feeling. My first wine from this winery, but I certainly had the satisfying feeling of what’s waiting for me in the next hour. Testamatta is a blend of the 7 youngest vineyards (25-60y) and features the beautiful painting of Bibi on the label.
The perfume was animating ripe but bring red cherry, quite blossomy with rose and violet, freshness. The mouth has a linear structure with nicely chalky tannins, crunchy cherry vibes, lively feeling and refreshing acidic finish. One of the purest and most animating Sangiovese I’ve had.
Then comes the main actor: Colore with 4 vintages.
Colore 2020
Colore is a selection of the best and oldest (70-100+ y) vineyards. We start with 2020, the second vintage (since 2019) made purely with Sangiovese. 18 months ageing in used barrels. The reason for the single varietal bottling was the “Colorino and Canaiolo can cover the pureness of Sangiovese”. However, stay tuned for single varietal filling from these 2 varieties under Bibi Graetz labels!
The nose showed already greater complexity, a bit more ripeness and generosity, more depth in general. Bramble and plum. Slight sweetness. Upon sipping, the wine has more structure and more dimensions. Amalgam of freshness, power, elegance, refinement and sexy finish that doesn’t let you get tired. Utterly gentleman-like, dancing athlete.
Colore 2018
80% Sangiovese with 10% Colorino and 10% Canaiolo
The nose was a bit spicier, the tannins more present maybe, but not noisy or aggressive, but maybe chalkier in a good sense. Rather tasty and they melted into acidity towards the end. It was not a light wine, but still very elegant.
Colore 2016
80% Sangiovese with 10% Colorino and 10% Canaiolo
I was the only one in the room, whose favorite was this one. It has already seen 3 years in barrel (twice as much than the younger vintages). The nose showed animating tertiary note already. More Tuscan herby smell. Chalk and dried character. It was very full bodies, had a dried fruit character and beautiful ripeness red and black fruit. It has the most beautiful balance for me and readiness for a wonderful ageing potential.
Colore 2015
80% Sangiovese with 10% Colorino and 10% Canaiolo
The nose was the most generous one. It was really mouth-filling, really concentrated, huge core, stickier than the younger ones, doesn’t want to leave your mouth. Soft and broader, the acidity is rather underlying.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have the chance to taste the whites of the house that are produced in purely mesmerising Italian landscapes, like Testamatta white from the Giglio Island. But I became curious and thirsty for them!